1680D Nylon

1680 Denier means 1680 grams of yarn per 9000 m length

1680D Polyester

1680 Denier means 1680 grams of yarn per 9000 m length

190T Polyester

A 190T material is woven from yarns with a yarn weight of 70D (Denier). The total woven thread count in the warp and weft directions is approximately  190 per square inch.

1x1 Rib

In 1x1 rib, right-hand stitches alternate with left-hand ones. This results in a flexible fabric that has the same appearance on both sides.

210D Polyester

210 Denier means 210 grams of yarn per 9000 m length

3M Thinsulate ™

3M Thinsulate ™ is a trademark of the 3M Corporation for a heat-insulating fleece fabric made from artificial fibres, used primarily as an inlay padding for clothing, e.g. in gloves or winter jackets. The term derives from the words thin & insulate. The material was originally marketed in 1979.

300D Polyester

300 Denier means 300 grams of yarn per 9000 m length.

420D Polyester

420 Denier means 420 grams of yarn per 9000 m length.

600D HD-Polyester

600 Denier means 600 grams of yarn per 9000 m length.

600D Polyester

600 Denier means 600 grams of yarn per 9000 m length.

70D Nylon

70 Denier means 70 grams of yarn per 9000 m length.

A

AC-coated

Acrylic coating to make the fabric water-repellent.

Acrylic

Light-weight synthetic fibres with properties similar to those of wool: high durability, heat retention, very low moisture absorption, colour fastness.

Antipilling

An antipilling finishing reduces pilling, lint and fluff.

B

Balaclava hood

Ski masks that cover the head and neck and usually only leave the eye area uncovered.

Bar tack closure

A bar tack closure is used to fasten a rolled up sleeve in place.

Bar tack stitch

The bar tack stitch is a stitch used to reinforce areas subject to increased stress, e.g. corner pockets and openings, belt loops and zips. This stitch consists of a row of zigzag stitches going forward and backward through the fabric several times.

Bar tack

Bar seam or narrow, long short seam, i.e. a decorative finishing seam.

Batik dyeing

Dyeing process for fabrics in which binding techniques create unique, artful light-to-dark colour gradients.

Belcoro® yarn

High-quality, environmentally friendly material produced and processed in-house by Fruit of the Loom.

Bioactive fabric

Bioactive fabrics reduce smells, are antibacterial, quick-drying and heat-resistant. Silver ions, which do not rub off onto skin and cannot be washed out, are added to the fabric. This creates long-term freshness.

Bionic® finish

Unique, patented material treatment for eco-friendly, PFC-free waterproofing and sealing.

Bird eyelet mesh

Light-weight, elastic polyester material with moisture and temperature regulation.

Blended

Blended fabrics are made of fibres of different colours. For this reason, their appearance is irregular and distinguished by multiple colours.

Blind stitch

A blind stitch is an invisible seam. It is also called “magic seam”.

Bonded fleece

Bonded fleece is a layer of fleece connected to another layer of fleece (or sweat or softshell). This makes the fleece even warmer and more durable.

Bonding

Bonding is the process of permanently connecting two different textiles through heat, hot melt adhesive or other waterproof adhesives.

Bootcut fit

Bootcut is a trouser cut which is tight on the thigh and wide from the knee down.

Box pleat

Box pleat are inverted pleats, i.e. small, tightly positioned pleats.

Branding

Branding is the addition of a brand symbol to a product.

Breathable coating

Coating applied directly to a fabric, usually polyester or polyamide, to make fabrics breathable or water vapour permeable, so that sweat passes through the clothing away from the body.

Breathable membranes

Like breathable coatings these ensure that moisture can pass through the fabric to allow sweat to leave the body through the clothing. From the outside to the inside, membrane-coated fabrics are wind-/and or waterproof.

Breathable

Fabric that allows moisture to pass through it away from the body to reduce the loss of heat caused by wet or damp clothing.

Brushed

Brushed means “roughed on the inside”.

Burnout

Burnout printing is sometimes simply referred to as “burnout”. This printing procedure creates a transparent effect on mixed fabrics.

Button down collar

A button down collar is a soft collar without collar stays. The tips of the collar are buttoned to the shirt front.

C

Cadet collar

Cadet collar is another term for a stand-up collar.

Cambric

Cambric is a light-weight cotton or linen plain weave fabric with a coloured weft, which is often used for tops and shirt fabrics.

Canvas

Also sometimes called sailcloth, is a grid-shaped cotton fabric with a wide-meshed weave. It is extremely sturdy.

Cap sleeves

Cap sleeves are very wide sleeves, also sometimes called frilled sleeves.

Carded cotton

Carded cotton is a fibre fleece also known as cotton wool. This product is created by the pre-combing process. During this process, the tangled fibre flocks are combed by a special spinning machine (card) to break up the chaotic flocks of untreated cotton and remove possible impurities.

Casual fit

Casual fit is a fit specifically designed for leisure time.

Chain stitch

This stitch is one of the most important stitches in embroidery used to sew two fabrics together. The needle enters the fabric next to the exit point and forms a loop. The loop is placed around the new exit point. This creates the appearance of a chain of loops.

Chiffon

Chiffon is a delicate, veil-like fabric made of silk or synthetic fibres, which is crimped at the top. Thin lengthwise creases make the surface look irregular.

Chino

Chino is a light-weight cotton fabric frequently used for trousers or skirts. It has a finer weave than denim.

Circular knitted cotton

To produce circular knitted cotton, cotton yarn is made into a tube on a special circular knitting machine. As the knitting needles are arranged in a circle, this produces an endless, round knitted fabric. The advantage is that no side seams are required when tailoring clothing (e.g. t-shirts).

Circular knitted goods

See “circular knitted cotton”

Coated

Materials with a glossy coat are referred to as “coated”.

Cocktail cuffs

A cocktail cuff is a shirt cuff with two buttons. The buttons are partially covered by a second layer of fabric. Another name for the cocktail cuff is “Neapolitan cuff”.

Cold dye

Dyeing process in which clothes are tailored undyed and only cold-dyed after sewing. This creates an oily, dirty effect. The seam areas are not dyed through, causing them to remain lighter. Other terms for “cold dye” are “oil dyed”, “old dye” and “cool dye” as well as “oil washed”, “cool washed” and “cold washed”.

Colour blending

Colour blending refers to a multi-colour yarn consisting of fibres of different colours that are blended and spun together.

Colour-blended cotton

Cotton with a colour blend, i.e. cotton fabric consisting of multi-coloured fibres, making the fabric multi-coloured.

Combed cotton

Combed cotton is cotton with a particularly clear and smooth structure created through an additional combing process. In this process, short fibres are combed out and long fibres are brought to a parallel position.

Control Union certification

The Control Union is an independent, global certification company whose aim is to ensure that certificates for sustainable products and production methods are properly implemented (e.g. GOTS, Naturland and Fair Trade criteria). For this purpose, the organisation conducts tests, monitoring, evaluations, inspections and certifications.

Cordura

Cordura is a registered trademark of the Swiss company Invista. Cordura is a fabric made of polyamide fibres used to produce highly durable textiles. It is more tear-resistant than nylon and is often used for protective clothing, bags and backpacks.

Cotton Blend

Cotton blend is a mixed fibre made of cotton and polyacrylics. The advantages of temperature equalising cotton are combined with highly resistant synthetic fibres.

Cotton canvas

Very rigid, sturdy cotton fibre, which, in the field of textiles, is generally used for accessories (e.g. pockets, shoes). While dry, canvas is breathable and wind-proof. Canvas , also sometimes called sailcloth, is a grid-shaped cotton fabric with a wide-meshed weave. It is extremely sturdy.

Cotton taffeta

Cotton bend is a mixture of cotton and polyacrylic yarns. The multiple advantages combine the temperature-balancing nature of cotton with the resistant nature of the synthetic fibre.

Cotton touch

Cotton touch is used to describe textiles that feel like cotton.

Cotton

Plant-based textile fabric, particularly friendly to skin and supple, non-felting, durable, absorbs moisture, is heat-resistant and easy to clean. Typical cotton fabrics include cambric, beaverteen, damask, velvet and mako satin.

Crescent seam

A crescent seam is a semi-circular seam on the back of a piece of clothing, from one shoulder to the other.

Crescent yoke

A crescent yoke is an added piece of fabric on the back of a piece of clothing, from one shoulder to the other.

Cross dye

The cross dye method creates a yarn effect. This effect is created through fibres tinted with different colours.

Cut and sew goods

Cut and sew goods are clothes tailor-made from raw materials. This means they are not mass products.

Cutaway collar

A cutaway collar (sometimes called “shark collar”) is a fashionable high collar with wide spread wings.

D

Denier

Denier is a unit for indicating yarn count. The following applies: 1 den = 1 gram per 9000 metres.

Denim

Denim is largely used for jeans fashion. It is a highly durable cotton fabric. Clothing made from denim is given a fashionable look through different washing procedures.

Dip-dye effect

The dip-dye effect is created by a dyeing process in which textiles are given individual, flowing colour gradients through being dipped in dye.

Double chain stitch

The double chain stitch is used to sew up particularly tough materials, e.g. jeans. The seam consists of two threads and looks like a chain from the bottom. This stitch is also used for decorative seams.

Double seam

The double seam, also known as French seam, is used to sew up particularly thin fabrics such as silk. The seam allowances are no longer visible with this type of seam.

DuPont™ Sorona®

Dupont Sorona is a versatile, functional and heavy-duty polyester fibre made of renewable resources developed by the US chemical company DuPont for creating functional textiles. In addition to function, DuPont focused particularly on sustainability. The fibres are most frequently used for the production of outdoor textiles, carpets and car interiors.

E

EC directive 89/686/EEC

The EC directive 89/686/EEC governs the use of personal protective equipment during work.

Egyptian cotton

Is a particularly high-quality, durable cotton due to its high thread count.

Elastane

Elastane is a synthetic elastic fibre. Elastane improves fit and comfort, as it is extremely stretchy, easy to clean and retains its shape.

Elastolefin

Elastolefin is the term used for fibres containing at least 95 percent by weight of macro molecules. They consist of ethylene and at least one other olefin. These fibres can be stretched significantly and will return almost entirely to their initial shape once released.

EN 1150:1999

The EN 1150 standard provides extensive detail on the private use of reflective materials. Clothing meeting this standard make the wearer more visible in all light conditions.

EN 13356

EN 13356 is a standard specifying the visual performance and surface area requirements of accessories for non-professional use. Accessories meeting these standards make the wearer more visible when lit by vehicle lights on roads in darkness.

EN 343

EN 343 contains requirements for protective clothing against rain, wind and temperature of under -5 °C. Factors such as heat insulation, water-repelling characteristics, water vapour permeability resistance, breathability, component thickness of parts of the clothing are governed by this standard.

EN 471

Was replaced by EN ISO 20471.

EN ISO 20345:2011

EN ISO 20345:2011 is a standard for classifying protective shoes.

EN ISO 20471:2013

EN ISO 20471 contains numerous requirements for high visibility clothing used professionally in the workplace. Until October 2013, these were governed by EN471, since June 2013 they have been governed by the new EN ISO 20471 standard.

EN71 (EU toy safety standard)

EN 71 is a toy safety standard. This standard applies in all of Europe for all manufacturers and retailers.

EN812

EN 812 classifies the “bump cap”. According to En 812 a bump cap is a special type of head protection which closes the gap between a hard hat / protective helmet and protection from cold and sun (e.g. baseball cap).

Enzyme treatment

Cotton or yarns are treated with enzymes to increase their quality. Nowadays, enzyme treated cotton is vital for textile finishing. Enzymes are regenerative. This reduces waste. For this reason, using micro-organisms in the textile industry is harmless, even from an ecological perspective.

Enzyme washing

see enzyme treatment.

Enzyme-treated cotton

Enzymes are organisms with various effects. They are, for instance, able to break down the sizing agents, which are crucial for the weaving process, after textile production. Another enzyme type is used for creating different feels in cotton fabrics (e.g. stonewash effect). Yet another enzyme type can partially break down dyes in dyed fabrics to create new dye effects.

Enzyme-washed

see enzyme treatment

Epaulettes

Epaulettes are the shoulder pieces of a uniform.

EVA

Ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymers (EVAC) are copolymers made of ethylene and vinyl acetate. This synthetic material is very heat-resistant and resistant to ageing. A vinyl acetate percentage between 30% and 90% creates a rubber-like elastomer. This material is primarily used for shoe soles.

F

Fair Wear

The Fair Wear Foundation is an organisation consisting of several businesses (retailers, producers, NGOs, etc.). They monitor each other and promise to maintain certain standards. Unlike Fair Trade products, the Fair Wear Foundation is not monitored by any external organisation.

Fairtrade / Fair Trade certification

The Fair Trade certification is used for products fulfilling specific social, environmental and economic criteria. This makes them fair trade goods. Fair Trade brings together consumers, companies and producer organisations. It changes trade through better prices for small-scale farming families and humane working conditions for plantation workers in developing and emerging countries.

Fashion fit

Fashion fit is a fit in line with current fashion.

Felt

Felt is a rigid textile structure consisting of natural or synthetic fibres connected through the process of felting.

Felted terry

Felted terry is a voluminous, soft material. One advantage of felted terry is its excellent absorbency. The volume is created by loose loops made of soft yarn.

Fitted cut

The term “fitted cut” is used for a slightly tighter fit, which is, however, not as tight as “slim fit”.

Flannel

Classic flannel is made of wool. Flannel is softer and more absorbent than other fabrics and warms its wearer despite its relatively low weight.

Flap

The term “flap” is used for various concepts. Originally it was used for the cuffs created by folding sleeves with side slits. However, the term is also used for fabrics of a different colour sewn onto clothing e.g. collar, shoulder or sleeve flaps. It is also used for the flap above e.g. a coat pocket.

Flat knitting

Flat knitting is a term frequently used for knitted pullovers and jackets produced on machines. A flat knitting machine is used for machine knitting and quick production of knitted textiles.

Flatlock

Flatlock = flat seam. A flat seam is a decorative seam. It is highly suitable for tight clothing, as there is no potentially irritating seam allowance.

Fleece

Fleece is a term used for a velour material, which usually consists of polyester. Fleece is very soft, lightweight, breathable, easy to clean, quick-drying and heat insulating.

Fluorescent

Fluorescent means “glowing by itself”.

French terry

The term “French terry” is used for a highly rigid jersey fabric with a cotton percentage of approx. 95 %. On the inside the fabric has a soft pile, on the outside it is brushed.

Full twine ribbed fabric

If several fine-thread yarns are twisted to create the warp and weft threads prior to weaving, this is referred to as full twine ribbed fabric. Ribbed fabric is highly elastic and has a lower material density than interlock.

G

Garment wash

The garment wash process reduces the risk of shrinking and gives the product a soft feel and a slightly washed-out appearance.

Gauge

Gauge is a unit of measurement. It is used to specify the fineness of a textile product based on the mesh count. The higher the gauge number, the finer the product.

GO/RT 3279

GO/RT 3279 is a standard defining the minimum requirements for high visibility protective clothing.

GOTS

GOTS is the Global Organic Textile Standard, a global standard for textile processing. It is used for textiles made of organic natural fibres, which meet environmental requirements with regard to their production chain as well as certain social criteria.

H

Heavy cotton

Heavy cotton is cotton knitted from very thick cotton threads in a tight pattern.

Heavy terry cloth

Heavy terry cloth is a fabric with loops. In some applications, loops are only formed on one side to save material. Double loops, however, are used for quality applications where both fabric sides are visible. Velour fabrics are created by cutting open the loop knots at the top.

Heavyweight cotton

Heavyweight cotton is heavy cotton, usually with a mass per unit area of over 260 g/m². It is frequently used for “heavy-duty” professional clothing, e.g. in outdoor applications or construction.

Herringbone

Herringbone is a special weaving method. This weaving method results in a diagonal structure that resembles fish bones.

Holster pocket

A holster pocket is a pocket attached to work trousers. It is intended for e.g. tools, screws, nails, etc. The holster pocket is sometimes referred to as a handy pocket, because it allows workers to keep their hands free, but still keep all of their tools within reach.

Hydrafort polyester

Hydrafort polyester is a material that is both water- and wind-proof. It provides reliable protection against the elements in outdoor clothing.

I

Iindanthren dyed

Indanthren is a synthetically produced vat dye. Indanthren-dye fibres are particularly resistant to washing, boiling, light, weather and chlorine.

Indigo dye

Indigo is a deep blue dye.

Interlock

The term “interlock” is used for knitted fabrics, which look identical on both sides, as two fine rib fabrics are connected with each other. This means only right stitches are visible. The left stitches are on the inside and therefore hidden. This creates a warming, stretchy, smooth fabric surface. Laddering is almost entirely impossible.

Isotex 5000

Isotex is a waterproof, breathable, wind-proof membrane that is particularly suitable for outdoor use. Different versions, which focus on different weather protection properties, are available. The Isotex 5000 membrane is completely waterproof up to a water column height of 5000 mm.

Italian collar

An Italian collar is also referred to as cutaway or shark collar. This is a fashionable high collar with wide spread wings.

J

Jacquard

Jacquard is a term used for fabrics with artistic woven patterns. These may be silk, viscose, wool or synthetic. The best-known Jacquard fabrics are: Brocade, matelassé and damask. Each of them have different patterning properties.

Jersey (Single & Stretch)

Jersey (Single & Stretch) is the term used for a cotton jersey fabric, a knitted fabric with a mat surface, which is different from its underside. Jersey is a finely knitted, elastic, breathable fabric that feels particularly soft on skin.

Jersey

Jersey is a knit fabric that is stretchy and soft and has a slightly ribbed structure. Jersey is often used for underwear and women's fashion.

Jute

Jute is a natural fibre and therefore completely biodegradable. This natural fibre is also called “the golden fibre” because of its golden, silky gloss.

K

Kent collar

The Kent collar is also known as wing collar or turndown collar. It is mainly used on men’s shirts. It consists of a large turndown collar with long flaps and a button.

Kevlar®

As Kevlar, an aramid fibre, is very hard, tear-proof, flexible and temperature-resistant, it is frequently used for bullet-proof vests, cut-proof gloves, fire protection clothing, tyre reinforcements, asbestos-free brake pads, fibre-optic cables, special ropes, aircraft parts, skis, trampolines, tennis rackets and hard hats. It is lighter yet stronger than steel.

Kimono collar

The kimono collar originates in Asia. It is rather rigid and therefore maintains its beautiful shape and sticks out slightly at the back of the neck.

Knop yarn

Knop yarn is a fancy yarn with thick sections (knops / knots) at a specific spacing, which are created during the spinning process. The finished fabric is often used as knopped fabric for producing women’s dresses.

L

Lady’s zip

On many pieces of clothing made for women, the zip is on the left unlike men's clothes which usually have the zip on the right. The same applies to the button panel.

Linen

Linen and wool are the fabrics with the longest history. Linen production started over 6000 years ago. This fabric is naturally anti-bacterial, practically antistatic, non-soiling and can absorb up to 35 % of humidity without feeling damp. Moreover, linen has both cooling and warming properties. Linen also has a naturally glossy appearance. At the same time it is, however, prone to creasing.

Long-fibre cotton

The approximately 10 to 18 millimetre long seed fibres of the cotton plant are the most frequently used raw material in the global textile industry. However, only very few plants provide seed fibres with a length of over 28 millimetres. The fabric made of these is far more durable, softer and of a higher quality than standard cotton.

Long-staple cotton

The staple length indicates the length of individual cotton fibres. It is a highly important quality indicator. The final textile product will be regarded as more valuable and finer the longer the fibre is. Staple is the term used for the average length of all fibres contained in a sample. Cotton with a staple length of 27.6 mm - 33.7 mm is regarded as particularly fine and tear-resistant.

Loose fit

Loose fit is a loose, casual fit.

Low twist yarn

Yarn is twisted during the spinning process to increase its durability and life. Low twist yarn can only be constructed from longer staple fibres. More air and space between the fibres makes low twist yarn particularly soft and absorbent.

Lycra® fibres

LYCRA® is the brand name for elastane produced by INVISTA. These fibres are so elastic that they can be stretched to 4-7 times their original length. As soon as the tension is released, they return to their original shape. Clothes made of LYCRA fibres are particularly comfortable, retain their shape and recover well from creasing.

Lyocell

During production of lyocell fibres, cellulose is dissolved and spun directly. The solvent is almost completely reusable. The first lyocell fibre to enter the market bears the brand name Tencel. Textiles made from lyocell fibres have a smooth, cool feel and a flowing drape. They also have a low creasing tendency and can be washed and even dry-cleaned.

M

Mandarin collar

The mandarin collar originates in Asia. It is a straight standing collar.

Martindale test

The Martindale test is used to test the resistance of a fabric against abrasion. The tested fabric is rubbed against a standard fabric for a faster simulation of natural wear. The number of abrasion cycles (unit of measurement: Martindale) to the end of the test is counted. The test ends when 2 threads of the tested fabric have ripped or visibly dissolved. This means that the higher the number of rotations is, the more abrasion-resistant the fabric is.

mat

"Mat” refers to a mat coating (for pantone colours).

Medium fit

Medium fit is a fit that is neither particularly loose nor particularly tight fitting.

Mercerised cotton

Cotton textiles are frequently mercerised after bleaching. Mercerising causes the bean-shaped fibres to swell and become round. The round shape reflects light evenly and gives the fabric a soft feel. Mercerised cotton has a particularly fine gloss and absorbs dyes more readily.

Mesh

Mesh is a unit of measurement for the mesh width. Mesh is also used as a term for an air-permeable netting fabric that is frequently used for large advertising prints, ice hockey jerseys and baseball caps, but nowadays also has applications in the textile industry.

Micro fibre

Micro fibre is a high-tech fibre. In most cases, micro fibre is made of polyester. Micro fibre is a fabric consisting of millions of microscopically fine fibres. These allow practically no wind or rain to pass through. However, moisture in the form of steam can evaporate easily through the fabric.

Microfibre

Microfibre is a high-tech fibre. In the majority of cases, microfibre is made from polyester. Microfibre is a fabric composed of millions of microfine fibres that offer great resistance to the penetration of wind and rain. Vaporous body moisture is, however, easily able to evaporate through the fabric.

Micro fleece

Micro fleece is thinner, finer and of a higher quality than conventional fleece. It consists of many fine fibres, between which a warm air cushion forms, ensuring a balanced body climate: it is wind- and water-repellent yet highly breathable. As micro fleece is particularly light-weight, it is highly suitable for function layers in sportswear. Micro fleece is of a higher quality than conventional fleece and is, as a rule, pilling-free.

Micro fleece

Unlike conventional fleece, micro fleece is generally pilling-free, as it is thinner, finer and of a higher quality. Micro fleece is wind and water-repellent but nevertheless breathable. This makes the material ideal for sportswear, e.g. as inner lining in outdoor jackets.

Micro piqué

Piqué is a fabric (usually made of cotton) consisting of alternating raised and lowered areas. This creates a quilted appearance. Micro piqué is piqué made of finer yarns and with a tighter grid.

Micro polyester

Micro polyester is a term used for ultra-fine yarn with individual fibres finer than 1.0 dtex (decitex). The unit of measurement 1.0 dtex means that 10,000 metres of yarn only weighs one gram. The light fibres make the fabric particularly supple and create a soft, flowing drape. Polyester micro fibres are used e.g. for washable imitation leather (Alcantara) or weather-proof fabrics.

Mitred V neck

A mitred V neck is a V neck with a pointed tip.

Mixed fabrics

Mixed fabrics are fabrics made of at least two types of fibres (natural and/or synthetic). Mixed fabrics combine the positive properties of the fabrics used. Compared to the materials in use (in their pure form) they are a low-cost compromise with regard to properties, comfort in wear and appearance. Mixed fabrics should always be cleaned based on the most sensitive fabric type.

Modal

Modal fibres are made of beech wood. They resemble viscose fibres. They are made of natural cellulose and have a cellulose content of 100 %. The advantages of modal fibres include high moisture absorption and quick drying.

Modern cut

Modern cut is simply a fashionable, modern cut.

Molton brushed

“Molton brushed” is a term used for specially roughened fabrics with a very soft interior.

Molton unbrushed

Mouliné yarn is made from twisting together a number of individual yarns of different colours.

Mouline yarn

Mouline yarn is a yarn made of individual threads with multiple different colours twisted together.

Mummy hood

A mummy hood is a tight-fitting hood, which leaves only the face uncovered.

N

Napped cotton

The smooth surface of fabrics is frequently turned into a hairy structure to increase its absorbency and heat insulation properties. The hairy structure is created using barbed hooks, with which ends of fibres are pulled out of the finished piece of fabric on its surface.

Natural rubber

Natural rubber, also called caoutchuc (Indian cao = tree; ochu = tear) is a term used for elastic polymers from which rubber is made. It mainly consists of the polymer cis-1,4 polyisoprene.

Necktape

A necktape is a tape integrated into a piece of clothing in the neck area to reinforce the fabric.

Neoprene

Neoprene is made of foamed synthetic rubber in a complicated process. The rubber is foamed and vulcanised in such a way that closed gas bubbles of the smallest possible size are created, which are evenly distributed across the material depth. These gas bubbles, not the rubber, create the thermal insulation effect.

New Kent collar

The New Kent collar is a collar with a slightly wider spread. It is not as wide as the shark collar, but not as pointed as the Kent collar.

Non-woven

Non-woven is a term used for fabrics which were not made into a fleece by a weaving process.

Nylon

Nylon is a particularly easy-care, durable synthetic fibre made of polyamide. It does not crease and dries quickly. This makes nylon the ideal material for sportswear and elegant fashion.

Nylon-taslan

Nylon-taslan is a fabric made of polyamide fibres. The polyamide fibre used is nylon. Nylon-taslan is extremely water-repellent and wind-proof.

O

OCS (Organic Content Standard)

The abbreviation OCS stands for Organic Content Standard. This standard inspects organic materials from the source to the final product and verifies the organic material content.

Oeko-Tex standard

The Oeko-Tex standard is an inspection system used for verifying the harmlessness of products from a human ecology standpoint. The standard evaluates whether textiles exceed limits of hazardous substances (heavy metals, pesticide residue, azo dyes, formaldehyde). Textiles which do not exceed these limits receive the Oeko-Tex standard 100 certificate.

Organic cotton

Certified cotton cultivated without pesticides and chemical fertilisers. The labels “organic” and “certified organic” or kbA (German label “from controlled organic cultivation”) are protected and may only be used if the directives for organic agriculture are obeyed.

Organic cotton

Organic cotton is cotton from controlled organic cultivation.

Ottoman

The term Ottoman is short for Ottoman weave. Ottoman is a ribbed fabric. It has pronounced longitudinal ribs created by multiple wefts made of wool or other fibres. Ottoman is frequently used for coats and dresses.

Overlock stitches

An overlock stitch is a stitch in which the upper thread is locked by the lower thread. This prevents the upper thread from slipping out of the seam. As the overlock stitch goes across the edge of the fabric, seams sewn with it are very neat and do not fray.

P

Peached

Peached textiles feel particularly soft (like the skin of a peach).

PEVA

PEVA is the abbreviation of poly ethylene vinyl acetate.

Pigment dye

(see pigment dyed)

Pigment dyed

Insoluble dyes are called pigments. Pigment dyes are dyes that have been turned into pigments. 50 % of textile printing worldwide is performed with pigment dyes. However, while pigment dyeing is suitable for all fibre types (natural and synthetic fibres), pigment dyes are rare. They are only used for light to medium shades. Their abrasion resistance is insufficient for dark shades.

Pilling test

The pilling test determines the pilling tendency of a fabric.

Pilling

Pilling is the formation of small knots on e.g. fleece due to abrasion.

Piping

Piping is a narrow border in the shape of a small bulge. Its colour usually contrasts with the surrounding fabric. It is used to decorate clothing on edges, seams and slits.

Piqué

Piqué Piqué is a fabric (usually made of cotton) consisting of alternating raised and lowered areas. This creates a quilted appearance.

Poly cotton blend

A poly cotton blend is a textile made of polyester and cotton.

Polyacrylic fibres

Polyacrylic fibres are industrial fibres. They resemble wool, are fluffy, very light-weight, easy to clean, light-fast and resistant to chemicals. Due to its ability to absorb moisture and allow it to pass through, this fibre is frequently used for sportswear.

Polyamide

Polyamide fibres are synthetic fibres which are lighter than silk, elastic, anti-crease, moth-proof and highly tear-proof even when wet. While polyamide is extremely abrasion-resistant and maintains its shape well, it is sensitive to contact with pressing irons, dryers, deodorant, bleach, stain remover and sunlight. In 1939, polyamide entered the US fashion market under the brand name nylon.

Polycarbonate

Polycarbonate (PC) is a thermoplastic material frequently used as glass alternative. Polycarbonate is transparent and colourless, but can be dyed. As polycarbonate is quite expensive, it is usually only used where other synthetic materials would be too soft, too fragile, too sensitive to scratching, insufficiently dimensionally stable or not transparent enough.

Polyester cotton touch

Polyester cotton touch is a synthetic fibre with the feel and appearance of cotton.

Polyester mesh

Polyester mesh is an air-permeable mesh fabric with a fine, semi-open pattern.

Polyester pongee

Polyester pongee is a weaving method that creates a very dense fabric. The fabric has the same properties on both sides and is characterised by a matt to semi-bright gloss.

Polyester twill

Polyester twill is an elastic woven material with a sophisticated structure.

Polyester

Polyester is a versatile synthetic fabric, which can be produced at low cost, allowing it to be used to make low-cost outerwear, underwear, etc. Other advantages of the fabric are that it is easy to clean and requires little ironing. Full colours remain vibrant for a long time and do not fade after repeated washing. On the other hand, it is less breathable than cotton.

Polyurethane

Polyurethane is a highly versatile, powerful synthetic material. It is used for the production of textiles, shoes, furniture, mattresses, medical devices, refrigerators, cars and insulation material.

Pongee

See polyester pongee

Poplin

Poplin is the term used for a fine-ribbed linen-woven fabric made of cotton or viscose yarn.

Pre-shrunk

Pre-shrunk clothing is clothing that shrinks less when washed.

Pre-shrunk

Pre-shrunk is a term for clothing that has undergone “shrinking pre-treatment”. Pre-shrunk clothing will not shrink any further when washed.

Pre-shrunk

Pre-shrunk is a term used for shrinking pre-treatment. Shrinking pre-treatment stops textiles from shrinking in the wash.

Pre-washed

Pre-washed textiles have reinforced seams and improved fibre absorbency. (Exception: Acrylic Color)

Princess seams

Princess seams are seams extending to the armholes on both sides of women’s jackets and dresses with a slight downward curve. This creates a figure-flattering, but not entirely formfitting silhouette. Princess seams are also used for men’s clothing. In this application, they are frequently used as a dividing seam in the backs of jackets.

PST (perfect sweat technology) by B&C

PST is a 3-thread fabric whose outside consists of fine cotton and whose inside consists of thicker polyester. Its advantages are a pleasant outside feel, good resistance to washing and an excellent anti-pilling function on the inside.

PU imitation leather

PU imitation leather is a type of imitation leather. It generally consists of a composite of a textile base and a synthetic cover layer.

PVC

PVC is short for polyvinyl chloride. This is a thermoplastic polymer created through chain-growth polymerisation from the monomer vinyl chloride. PVC plastics are divided into hard and soft PVC. Hard PVC is used e.g. for window profiles, tubes and vinyl records, while soft PVC is used for cable sheaths and flooring.

Q

Quilting seam

A straight seam with a straight lower thread is referred to as “quilting seam”.

R

Racerback

The term racerback is used for clothing such as bras or tops with straps that come together at the top of the back between the shoulder blades. This cut is also often referred to as a swimmer back.

Raglan

The term raglan refers to a special sleeve cut. The sleeve seam is diagonal and extends very far toward the collar, i.e. the sleeve makes contact with the collar and includes the shoulder section.

Raw-cut

The term raw-cut refers to textiles with raw seams.

Raw-edge

Raw-edge refers to the cut edge.

Rayon

Rayon is an artificially produced fibre also referred to as viscose. As the fibre is made of the natural material cellulose, rayon is not so much a synthetic fibre but really a near-natural fibre.

Reactive dyeing

Yarns and fabrics made of wool, silk, cotton and viscose can be dyed through reactive dyeing. During the reactive dyeing process, the fabric reacts with the dye. This allows the dyes to remain more vibrant, but they can only be washed at max. 60°C and are not chlorine-fast.

Reactive dyes

Reactive dyes consist of a dyeing chromophore, one or several solubilising groups and one or several reactive anchors separated from the chromophore by bridge links. Some examples of reactive dyes are basilene, novacrone, lanasole, procione, remazole.

Regular fit

“Regular fit” is a regular, normal cut.

Retail fit

This cut and fit is adapted to the requirements of retail.

Rib knitting

Rib knitted fabrics are textiles whose structure is based on the traditional rib pattern. This pattern is characterised by an elongated rib structure. It is often used for hats, pullovers and cardigans.

Ribbed cotton

Ribbed cotton is cotton in which one or several right stitches alternate with the same or a different number of left stitches on one side of the product in a rod-shaped pattern. Ribbed textiles are particularly stretchy. The cuffs on sweatshirts are a particularly good example.

Ribbed fabric

Ribbed fabric is characterised by its great stretching properties and a lower material density than interlock. Ribbed fabric is highly elastic and therefore suitable for tight-fitting shirts. At the same time, it is a low-cost fabric. A distinction is made between 1:1 and 2:2 fabric. In 1:1 fabric, left and right stitches alternate, in 2:2 fabric two right and two left stitches alternate.

Ring-spun cotton

Ring-spun cotton is cotton made of ring-spun yarn. Ring-spun yarn is high-quality yarn with specific fibre qualities and lengths. The fibre quality is generated by a combing process, followed by stretching and twisting on a “ring spinning machine”. This results in a fine yarn.

Ripstop

Ripstop (nylon) fabrics are fabrics frequently used for tents, kites, paragliders, sails, backpacks and sportswear, because they are particularly tear-resistant. They are produced with a special weaving technique, in which thicker threads are integrated into the otherwise thin fabric at a spacing of approx. 5 to 8 millimetres. This gives the fabric a “graph paper structure”.

Rolled hem

The rolled hem is used to create clean hems in particularly thin fabrics.

S

S1P steel-toed boots

According to the trade association rules for health and safety at work, there are different standardised category / protection classes for steel-toed boots. S1 steel-toed boots are suitable for areas in which no humidity is expected. S1P shoes have additional puncture-proof inserts as protection from stepping on sharp / pointed objects.

Sailcloth

Sailcloth is a thick, dense fabric made of cotton or flax which has been waterproofed.

sanforised

Sanforised fabric is fabric that has been treated so that it will not shrink when getting wet.

Sanforised

Sanforising is a washing process for textiles in which a shrinking process is deliberately induced. This is intended to prevent a loss of shape at a later point. Sanforisation is a patented pre-shrinking process. It guarantees that the fabric will shrink no more than 1% at a later point.

Satin weave

A fine fabric with a smooth, glossy surface and a matt back, frequently also referred to simply as ‘satin’.

Satin

Satin is a fabric created by a method called satin weave. Satin is mainly used by the clothing industry. Its manufacturing technique gives it the typical light-based gloss.

SBP steel-toed boots

According to the trade association rules for health and safety at work, there are different standardised category / protection classes for steel-toed boots. An SBP steel-toed boot is a boot which meets all the basic safety requirements (SB) and is puncture-proof (P) at the same time.

Scoop neck

A scoop neck is a very large round neckline in the shape of the letter U.

Scotchlite

3M-Scotchlite is a reflective material consisting of many microscopically small, reflecting glass balls. The material increases its wearer’s visibility in darkness, as it is visible at a distance of 160 m. It is, for instance, used for logos or decorative strips.

Sealed hem

A sealed hem is a fabric edge of textiles that has been folded over and sewn.

semi-combed cotton

Semi-combed cotton is cotton for which the processes of combing and smoothing the slivers prior to the spinning process are left out. This makes semi-combed cotton less hard or even than combed cotton.

Separation

Separation printing uses computer technology to calculate up to 13 separate colours from an image that would originally be printed with a 4-colour set. This makes accurate colour printing possible, even in textile production. Separation printing is frequently used for printing on dark textiles.

Set-in sleeves

Set-in sleeves are sleeves that have been set in. The seam of set-in sleeves runs across the shoulder.

Shawl collar

The shawl collar is a round collar, on which the top collar is connected with the lapel. Two shawl-like strips go from the rear centre of the shawl around the neckline. They are crossed at the front on the closure.

Sheer jersey

Sheer jersey is a very thin jersey fabric.

Shirt tail hem

The shirt tail hem is a round hem, which is higher on the sides.

Shoulder tape

A shoulder tape, like a necktape, is a tape that is integrated in textiles in the shoulder area to reinforce the fabric.

Shrinking pre-treatment

Shrinking pre-treatment stops textiles from shrinking while washed. These textiles are also called “pre-shrunk”.

Silicone washed

Silicone washed textiles have a very soft feel. This feel is created through a washing process in which silicones are added. However, the effect is lost after repeated washing.

Silver finish

Silver finish is an anti-bacterial, odour-inhibiting finish for textiles.

Single jersey (see also: JERSEY)

Jersey is the term used for a cotton jersey fabric, a knitted fabric with a mat surface, which is different from its underside. Jersey is a finely knitted, elastic, breathable fabric that feels particularly soft on skin.

Slim fit

Clothing with a slim fit is cut to be tight and narrow. Slim fit clothing is usually made of elastic material so that it can hug the body.

Slub (jersey)

Slub is a term used for a thickened yarn. Clothing made of slub material is made of yarn with elongated thick sections at regular or irregular intervals.

Slub cotton

Slub cotton is cotton that contains lumps and uneven sections. These thicker sections are often created intentionally by twisting the yarn or weaving with fibres of uneven width. This results in a rough, uneven fabric.

Slub yarn

Fancy yarn with intermittent thicker sections. Creative yarn, at the surface of which there are shorter or longer thick yarn sections in the shape of a flame, which sometimes have different colours. The yarn is produced on a condenser card through addition of roving or fleece pieces to the base material or on a fancy yarn twisting machine, so that two threads are twisted together with roving or a yarn of a specific length in an interrupted process.

Softshell

Softshell textiles consist of an elastic fabric that provides excellent comfort in wear due to its wind-proof, breathable and completely water-proof characteristics. The outside of the fabric is made of 93 % polyester with 7 % elastane and the centre layer is made of a breathable TPU membrane. The inside is made of micro fleece for extra warmth.

Softspun® quality

Softspun is a Fruit of the Loom trademark. Fruit of the Loom uses it to refer to particularly soft cotton.

Softstyle®

Softstyle is a Gildan trademark. Gildan uses it to refer to particularly soft cotton.

Spray print technique

Spray printing is a technique allowing patterns to be printed on fabrics.

Storm flap

A storm flap is a strip of fabric positioned behind a zip to stop wind and water from passing through.

Stretch

Stretch is a highly elastic fabric.

Sublimation printing

In sublimation printing, heat-sensitive ink is used to apply the desired image to the fabric undergoing finishing. The advantage of this printing technique is that the ink becomes part of the base material’s structure, meaning that the printed images on the fabric do not fade or tear, even after repeated washing.

Symmetry fleece

Symmetry fleece is a comfortable yet highly practical material. It has an antipilling finish, dries quickly, is easy to wash and has a soft feel. Symmetry fleece is particularly suitable for outdoor and lifestyle clothing.

T

Taffeta

Taffeta is a fabric with a subtle structure and a delicate silky sheen. It is particularly suitable for blouses, summer shirts, cloths and shawls, as it falls very loosely. Slight irregularities and a delicate pile give taffeta its unique charm.

Tailor fit

Tailor fit is a highly formfitting cut.

Tank top

A tank top is a sleeveless top (with straps).

Tear-away label

A tear-away label is a label that is easy to remove (tear away). Laundry instructions and information required by the textile labelling act are usually on the label in the side seam, which is not removed.

Teddy fleece

Teddy fleece is a particularly fluffy fleece.

Tencel®

Tencel is a particularly skin-friendly material. It can absorb up to 50 % more moisture than cotton. It dries quickly, ensuring perfect comfort in wear and an ideal body climate.

Terry cloth

"Terry cloth” is a fabric in which fancy or looping yarns are used to create a loop-like structure. However, the structure of conventional terry cloth has less volume and is not as soft as heavy terry cloth.

Thermoplastic

Thermoplastic material can be softened and moulded at higher temperatures without chemical modification.

Thinsulate®

Thinsulate is a trademark of the 3M Corporation used for a heat-insulating fleece made of synthetic fibres.

Tie-Fix©

The tie fix is an insert on the button panel of a shirt, which uses a loop on a tie to ensure that the tie remains in its position when the wearer bends over.

Tortoiseshell

Tortoiseshell is the shell of the tropical hawksbill sea turtle, which has been cut into thin sheets. Tortoiseshell is brown and transparent with a yellowish pattern. It is hard and brittle, but can be bent when carefully heated. Imitation tortoiseshell can be used to create the tortoiseshell appearance.

TPU membrane

TPU is short for thermoplastic polyurethane. Membranes are very thin films made of various polymers. These membranes can transport the water vapour molecules of sweat to the other side of the membrane. This means that they turn a textile breathable.

Transfer label

A transfer label is a printed label that can be pulled off and is usually attached at the neck of a piece of clothing. Laundry instructions and information required by the textile labelling act are usually on the label in the side seam, which is not removed.

Triblend

Triblend products use a fabrics made of three types of fibres, cotton, polyester and viscose. The word “triblend” means “blend made of 3 fibres”. This blend creates a mottled appearance. Compared with conventional mottled t-shirts, triblend shirts appear rougher. If the correct blending ratio is chosen, the fabric has positive properties: The shirts are soft and moisture exchange is guaranteed due to the high cotton content.

Tricot fabric

Tricot fabric is a knit fabric. During production of knitted fabrics, loops of thread are interlaced. Tricot fabric is stretchy and elastic, however not as elastic as conventional knitted fabrics. However, an advantage of tricot over knitted fabrics is that tricot is largely immune to laddering and does not crease. Tricot is used to make underwear and many other types of clothing.

Tubular fabric

Tubular fabric is the term used for all circular knitted materials. Tubular fabric permits e.g. production of shirts without side seams.

Twill

Twill is a term used for a specific type of weave. All twill weaves are balanced weaves.

Twill

Twill is short for “twill weave”. It is one of the three main weave construction types for woven fabrics. Twill weaves are characterised by their diagonal ribs. The best-known twill weave fabric is denim, a blue-and-white jeans fabric.

Twin needle stitch

A twin needle consists of two needles. A twin needle can be used to sew two parallel seams simultaneously on the top side of the fabric, while the lower thread creates a zigzag stitch.

Twisted terry cloth

Heavy terry cloth gets its open-mesh structure through a pile warp added to the weave in addition to the usual warp and weft threads. This creates a loop. To create twisted terry cloth, the yarns are twisted prior to weaving. Twisting the yarns makes the terry cloth firmer, gives it a better handle and makes it more durable than conventional heavy terry cloth. Twisted terry cloth combines good water absorption with great durability. This makes it highly suitable for long-term use.

Twisted velour

Velour is a material with a soft, velvety surface. Twisted velour has a firmer handle, as the loop threads are twisted. It also provides a great massaging effect.

U

unbrushed

Textiles referred to as unbrushed were not roughened on the inside.

uncoated

Uncoated is often used in the context of pantone dyes.

Unisex

Unisex is a term for clothing that is not sex-specific. This clothing can be worn by men and by women.

Used Look

Used look clothes look like they have been worn before. Artificial holes, torn sections, washed-out colours and frayed seams are used to create this look.

V

Velcro closure

Velcro is a company and brand name. The Velcro company group is the leading manufacturer and innovator of hook and loop fasteners. Due to the large number of copycats, the company has used advertisements, product literature and marketing campaigns to inform consumers that not all hook and loop fasteners are real Velcro brand name products.

Velour

Velour is a material with a soft, velvety surface. Velour often loses its pile after some time, as the pile was cut open and is only loosely integrated in the fabric. A synthetic latex dispersion is used to integrate the fibres and attempt to prevent this.

Velvet

Velvet is a material with an integrated pile of threads on top. The pile is at most two to three millimetres long. Velvet feels soft, but is slightly harder than velour and plush due to its short pile. Originally, velvet was made of silk. Nowadays, velvet is usually made of cotton or synthetic silk velvet.

Vintage

Vintage means “old” or “old-fashioned”. This term is used for somewhat older items. However, it is necessary to differentiate between actually old items and those that only appear to be old. The latter is referred to as “vintage style” in the fashion industry. It is similar to the “used look” as it also employs frayed seams, washed-out colours, etc. Fashion that is new but looks like it was made in a different era is also referred to as “vintage”.

Viscose

In appearance, viscose resembles cotton, but it is an artificially produced fibre. It is not a synthetic fibre, as it consists of a natural raw material (cellulose). The fashion industry uses this fibre to make artificial silk. Viscose falls softly and loosely and has a glossy appearance.

W

Water column

The water column is a unit of measurement. It is used for the impermeability of fabrics such as functional and rain clothing. It indicates the size of the water column that can rest on the fabric before it will begin to let moisture pass. For instance, a “1000 mm water column” corresponds to a pressure of 1kg/dm³. Fabric is regarded as waterproof from a specific value (rain clothes 1,300 mm, top tents 1,500 mm and tent floors 2,000 mm according to DIN).

Water vapour permeable

Water vapour permeable fabric is breathable. It allows water vapour to escape.

water-proof

Water-proof fabric does not let any water through.

water-repellent

If a textile is water-repellent, water will roll off the surface and cannot enter the textile interior. However, water-repellent clothing is not water-proof. Staying in (heavy) rain for a long period will make water-repellent clothing wet. The ability of clothing to repel water is measured using the theoretical value of an X mm water column. However, other factors such as the type of water exposure, the water pressure and the duration of exposure also play a role.

wind-proof

A wind-proof piece of clothing does not let wind pass through.

Woven terry fabric

Woven terry fabrics belong to the category of real pile fabrics. Almost all terry fabrics used in bathroom textiles are woven terry fabrics. Terry fabrics are made on special weaving machines, with the loops created during the weaving process. The characteristic loop formation is achieved due to the weft thread running across the loops during weaving. Heavy / woven terry cloth and conventional terry fabrics are fundamentally different. Although these fabric types resemble each other, the techniques used to manufacture them are different: In heavy / woven terry cloth, the loops are lifted up by a weaving process. This makes the fabric fluffier than smooth conventional terry cloth.

WRAP standards

WRAP stands for Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production and is an independent American organisation. The organisation aims to improve working conditions in fashion industry factories. The WRAP standards include: Prohibition of forced labour and child labour, prohibition of harassment and abuse, payment of legal minimum wage including social benefits, guaranteeing health and safety at the workplace, etc.

X

Y

Yarn-dyed

Yarn-dyed textiles are textiles made of yarn that was dyed prior to weaving or knitting. This type of yarn is usually used if textiles have to be particularly colour-fast.

YKK zip

YKK is a company founded in 1934 and the leading manufacturer of textile closure systems. Since 1936, the company has been manufacturing zips. The term YKK is used as a quality feature for zips by the textile industry.

Yoke

The term yoke is used for a piece of fabric (trimming) added to clothing.

Z